Greeting from Ushuaia Argentina,

Ushuaia is the southernmost large city in the world. The dock used by the channel crossing arrivals in Ushuaia fortunately is only about 600 meters down a gravel access road from the town's main street and the way is well lighted. Now close to midnight with nearly deserted streets I grabbed the nearest hotel to the docks and didn't bother unpacking. The next morning revealed a sobering reality: most of the decent hotels are expensive and fully booked for the rest of the week, this being the high season here at The End of the World. Then I stumbled on the inexpensive Hotel Cesar Hostel, also fully booked. The friendly English speaking receptionist suggested I return at 11:00 after checkout time when one of the guests might leave early making a room available. For the next four days I repeated the cliff hanger routine waiting to see if a room would again become available. At 100 pesos or about $33 this place could have charged twice that amount and still have been among the best values in town. 

This is a tourist town that lives mainly on the huge cruse ships stopping here on their way around the Horn or down to the Antarctic. Everyday hoards of obnoxious overweight visitors in their Bermuda shorts and tasteless gaudy shirts and dresses crowded the sidewalks. Periodically throughout the day, one of the ships would sound their loud "fog horns" to alert passengers of an eminent departure. Every shop along the main street displayed something of interest exclusively to tourists. Two restaurants offered all-you-can-eat Parrillada. The racks of lamb are roasted over an open pile of glowing coals visible from outside the restaurants forming an irresistible subject for the constant stream of photographers pausing to admire the heat and meat. I tried the $10 fare three times and always left happily bloated. Ushuaia retains much of its old historic character so none of the western fast food outfits have been allowed to penetrate the traditions... yet. Most people are employed in the tourist industries, but in 1974 the government instituted financial and tax incentives to promote the growth of industry in Tierra del Fuego. As a result of the higher subsidized salaries, a flood of workers came to the Ushuaia area. A heavy concentration of electronic assembly firms attracted by the abundant labor pool then located here. 

One morning I decided to walk to the entrance of the nearby Tierra del Fuego National Park. About an hour out the paved road ended and passing cars and trucks kicked up so much dust I detoured up a parallel hiking path through the adjacent hills. Then it started to rain on the already muddy marshland trail and circumstances forced me to blaze my own trail back to the road. Working my way through the trees toward the traffic sounds I finally spotted it and noted the rain had knocked the dust down. Now tired from all the trekking and sloshing, a city bus happened along and I gratefully jumped on for one complete circuit up and down the narrow developed areas along the coast. Another day I took the three hour catamaran trip around Bahia Ushuaia (an Indian name that means bay that enters the sunset) to see the sea lions and penguin islands. For the first time the difference between sea lions and seals became obvious: old male sea lions have manes not unlike their feline counterparts. We never saw the penguins. 

I kept hoping things would develop for a voyage down to the Antarctic, but eventually fate dictated otherwise. Of the three possible ships advertising last minute availability during the latter half of February only the 18 day cruise had space remaining in a triple room designed for two. I weighed the $4700 fare and the prospects of sleeping with strangers on a top bunk-bed in a rolling ship with several nighttime trips to a toilet designed for sailors and decided to skip this particular adventure. More hotel shopping no longer interested me and my accommodating hosts at the Hotel Cesar Hostal finally reached a day without an unexpected cancellation and unceremoniously kicked me out.  

Getting out of Ushuaia is an adventure all its own. The day I checked, all modes of transport to anywhere were fully booked! Airline seats were completely unavailable for several days into the future. That day I became convinced my best bet would be taking a bus north a couple hundred kilometers to Rio Grande. The bus company indicated getting a seat for that destination should be no problem tomorrow. We will see.  

Photos taken while in Ushuaia Argentina are here. 

Peace,
Fred Bellomy