Xi'an 2016
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Xian 2016: Sleeping Box on Trial in Xi'an Airport. What a great idea, cost is $7.50/hr, for a usual overnight stay about the same one might pay for a regular hotel some distance from the airport. But, there are other choices in this forward looking airport, from hostel to luxury.


Xian 2016: This is "Jack" who speaks excellent English and took the adjacent seat on the airport bus into the city. Only twenty years old, he manages one of the airport security offices and has traveled widely. The bus let us off near the West Gate, quite some distance from the Bell Tower and he walked me part way noting my hotel would be only a few more blocks down the street we were on. That turned out to be an hour and a half walk!


Xian 2016: Daytime view of the Bell Tower from my fifth floor room in the hotel.


Xian 2016: During one of my earliest visits to the Middle Kingdom I puzzled over the symbol used to designate hotels. This is it and I remember it as a gallows with someone hanging who tried to steal towels from a hotel. Crude, but it works for me.


Xian 2016: Artificial grass is widely used to cover anything not green!


Xian 2016: Obviously cherries are in season; quality varies quite a bit from one vendor to another.


Xian 2016: Obviously cherries are in season; quality varies quite a bit from one vendor to another.


Xian 2016: Paintings on the wall near my 1212 room in the Aurum Hotel.


Xian 2016: Decorations around the lavish $10 luncheon buffet in the Aurum Hotel.


Xian 2016: Cartilage rich chicken feet included in the lavish $10 luncheon buffet in the Aurum Hotel. I passed on this one, but a friend says I missed a good bet.


Xian 2016: Sculpture facing the elevators in the lobby of the Aurum Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: Down the street from the Aurum Hotel a couple dozen men played cards and other games. Money changed hands. Notice the cap like haircut being warn by the guy in the middle.


Xian 2016: Floral decorations in the lobby of the Aurum Hotel.


Xian 2016: Interesting color scheme for a horse standing next to a restaurant not far from the Aurum Hotel where I stayed.


Xian 2016: This fellow demonstrated how he uses his whip to keep his top spinning in the New City Plaza Park. Others are simply playing crack the whip which can be heard for blocks around. That noise is what attracted me to the site in the first place.


Xian 2016: Grandmother doing her duty as baby sitter in the New City Plaza Park while mother tends the baby and big sister.


Xian 2016: Grandmother doing her duty as baby sitter in the New City Plaza Park while mother tends the baby and big sister who is determined to torment her little brother by keeping the watermelon ball away from his eager hands.


Xian 2016: This is the Drum Tower located not far from the Bell Tower.


Xian 2016: This explanation suggests the sundial is an ancient Chinese invention.


Xian 2016: Imaginative sculpture in the lobby of the Aurum Hotel.


Xian 2016: Close up shot of the imaginative sculpture I found in the lobby of the Aurum Hotel.


Xian 2016: Directions fixed to the walkways like this are used wherever people need information in transportation depots. These only have Chinese information, but most include English, too.


Xian 2016: This could have been a scene observed in any major American city, but it is on the streets of Xian, China.


Xian 2016: "Robo-cop" used to make safety announcements wherever and whenever needed. One of the messages read: "Beware of theft!" There are plenty of human cops around town, so these free up the guys walking the beat for more unpredictable things. Notice the camera lens at the top of the device so security people can add "eyes in the sky" anytime more are needed.


Xian 2016: Another view with the reflecting pool of that lovely pagoda I stumbled on in a park to the east of the hotel.


Xian 2016: A closer look at that lovely pagoda I stumbled on in a park to the east of the hotel.


Xian 2016: Our city bus waited for a long red light giving me a chance to photograph this couple and their vehicle also waiting for the light.


Xian 2016: Walking down the popular Muslim "food" street I paused to admire this clever sculptural group.

 


Xian 2016: On one of my walks down a narrow alley I came upon this clever planter made from plastic drain pipes hanging from a wall.

 


Xian 2016: This is one way to get some green while still making the surface appropriate for car tires.

 


Xian 2016: Part of the landscaping along the park next to the southern wall around the city. During my short walk I discovered two real musicians practicing their art, adding a dramatic dimension to this magical experience.

 


Xian 2016: Part of the landscaping along the park next to the southern wall around the city.

 


Xian 2016: Even the paved walkway is a work of art as this example of many embellishments along the way shows.

 


Xian 2016: Walking the wide paved path along the park next to the southern wall around the city I came upon this plaque presenting some of the history of the city's great wall.

 


Xian 2016: Notice erected in the park next to the southern wall around the city.


Xian 2016: This is one of three violators I saw on the pedestrians only walkway outside the northern wall  around the city.

End of column.

26 May-13 June 2016

 

Greetings from Xi'an China

If it is fungus for breakfast and noodles for lunch with adversarial Internet access, I know I must be in China again. Of course the fungus is not the kind we find between our toes and the noodles are not always white, long and squishy, and any red speckles seen on the mass certainly will mean the diner is in for a hot time. The feeling of Chinese in China is not the same as it is in other parts of the world. Surprised? That reality surprised me for a while until I realized human nature demands that we pretty much ignore the commonplace and focus attention on that which is different. Unless the ordinary is obviously dangerous, that which is unfamiliar is more likely to pose a threat to our survival and evolution has made sure that always gets priority attention.

I still remember vividly my first visit to Hong Kong back in March 1979. Everything felt exotic... until I deliberately focused on similarities... and then it became obvious that almost everything only superficially differed from that with which I had intimate daily familiarity. Mother Nature in her wisdom wants life to survive. Why, I don't know, except that it seems to be one of those inevitable emergent properties of reality in this eon. But, that is an issue for another time.

Internet access barriers are another matter entirely; that is man made by Chinese authorities who deem it the best way to protect the Chinese political system from outside corrupting influences... and they might be right. But, for foreign visitors who have always enjoyed free access to the world's information it is an intolerable interference with our right to learn anything and everything we choose whenever we choose, even stuff which might pose a threat to the status quo... perhaps especially because of that.

Every ruling power needs to continually justify its actions to anyone who disagrees with them in my opinion... for whatever reason. My present sensitivity is no doubt a result of not being able to connect to the Aurum Hotel's WiFi networks (aurum & WXaurum) and the frequent "network unavailable" messages preventing normal use in both my room #2112 and in the dining room during breakfast. With attempted sign-on unfamiliar messages appear: "Checking network requirements" and "Server not found" and "No Internet, Secured." One spot in the hotel lobby seems to provide the most reliable connectivity, so I retreat to that location in desperation when access is absolutely essential: like when updating the online version of postcard pages from the off line working copy.

My afternoon flight from Bangkok arrived in the fading light of dusk. Customs and immigration could not have been simpler; it actually felt like arriving in the US... complete with jovial English quipping agents! China has perfected the art of walkway direction graphics for foreign visitors and finding the transportation area quickly became obvious. Selecting the best airport shuttle bus proved more challenging as there are many routes offered. My repeated pleas in English for a bus to the Bell Tower area soon produced multiple finger pointing at a bus bound for the West Gate area.

My fading memory of the city failed to reveal just how far I might need to walk from the West Gate bus stop. Fortunately, Jack, my seat companion on the airport bus offered to walk me part way toward the Bell Tower Hotel. Jack speaks perfect English. Only twenty years old, he already has traveled internationally and manages one of the Xianyang International Airport security offices; a very impressive young man.

We walked together chatting about the city for a half hour before reaching his apartment building. There, he noted I'd find my hotel by continuing on down the street for "only a few more blocks." That few blocks took me an hour to walk as dusk turned to dark! Fortunately, being so close to the city's principle landmark and at the intersection of the city's two main boulevards, everyone knows the Bell Tower Hotel well and it is easy to find. Once inside however, the distracted reception staff spoke little English and appeared anxious to be rid of my interruptions.

Groups of Chinese guests milling around the lobby made such a racket I had trouble understanding what disjointed information the reception staff did try to provide during the frequently interrupted check-in process. To be honest, there were a few people conversing in a normal tone of voice, but the boisterous majority obviously needed to demonstrate they should be considered dominant individuals and in control by shouting! Although now in China, my questions about international Chinese travelers exhibiting such obnoxious noisy behavior still needed to be examined with ordinary people in other circumstances.

All rooms in the Bell Tower Hotel have a slippery tub and shower combination, something I learned only after returning to the reception desk to complain that in my advanced age wobbly condition I'd prefer a room with a non-existent walk-in shower. The receptionist's abrupt and unfriendly response shouted: "Stop bothering me; I'm busy!" Having pre-paid my two night Deluxe Room booking through the Agoda online agent, I resigned myself to fate's reality and retreated to my room looking for Saint Serendipity. There, she pointed to the magnificent view of the city's Bell Tower with its freshly planted necklace of colorful flowers illuminated by bright lights for nighttime enjoyment. This prominent landmark structure occupies the area in the center of the city's major traffic circle. The hotel's location really is the best in the city.

Always an important consideration in any hotel, Internet access is intermittent and unreliable. As there are no staff in the reception area capable of communicating in English, getting any help there is next to impossible. After two nights in the disappointing Bell Tower Hotel (which I found so pleasant last time here in 2008) I couldn't wait to move elsewhere this time. The place has gone to the dogs. It has not aged well giving the impression of deliberate neglect. I could no longer find anything to appreciate except the location and view of the grand Bell Tower from my "deluxe" room window. The room itself is not much better than a YMCA and at $75 is overpriced even for this tourist town. Only the view justifies the "Deluxe" label. With no advertised room safe and casual security, the noisy Chinese guests prowling the halls late at night made me nervous.

My room #523 is badly in need of major routine maintenance: the bathroom fan is very noisy and the room air conditioner is failing. Mosquitoes had a feast on Bellomy blood both in my room and at breakfast where I found the coffee machine broken... after convincing the inept dining room hostess the first morning her records failing to show my prepaid breakfast had to be wrong. The hotel has eliminated all but the standard Chinese dishes from the breakfast selections, making most items Western a thing of the past. When I discovered the fruit juices all to be sweetened flavored water I resolved to avoid the Bell Tower Hotel in any future visit to the city. Staff I encountered throughout the hotel badly need guest relations training and the few who spoke a smattering of English never used it to make me feel very welcome.

The first morning in the lobby as I pondered the day's activities, I discovered the hotel now allows taxi touts to unceremoniously accost guests inside the hotel itself! Naturally, I immediately went hotel shopping the minute I could and found several better options. I chose the 4 star $65 Aurum International Hotel a few blocks north-east of the centrally located Bell Tower and right next to the New City Plaza Park where local folks socialize in the most imaginative ways day and night.

The hotel is new and I'm glorying in the deluxe double room luxury complete with two bathrooms, one of which has the best walk-in shower I have ever discovered in any hotel.  I managed to negotiate a long term $75 rate including a big buffet breakfast, the same as I had paid for the Bell Tower disaster the previous two nights! A day earlier while hotel shopping, I had discovered the buffet lunch at the Aurum with many of my favorite dishes including sashimi and for a budget price of around $10. Unfortunately, it is only available on the occasional days when the hotel is hosting large groups.

Everything in my room looks brand new and housekeeping has been consistently perfect. The tea making service includes two fresh packets of "3in1" Nescafe coffee each day in addition to usual four packets of tea. The television must be a dream for anyone who understands Chinese as the program options are endless, but for non-Chinese guests they are impossible. Exploring, I finally found the English language CCTV news channel and stumbled on several Hollywood movies with Chinese subtitles. The Internet WiFi is another matter; always terrible in the first room #1212, but occasionally great in the #2112 room they gave me after the first night. During my two weeks in the hotel the Internet access has alternately been acceptable and horrible. I waste a lot of time messing with the WiFi.

Just before leaving Bangkok I noticed the first stages of another dental infection. After four days of waiting for my own immune system to kick in, I reluctantly started a ten day course of Amoxicillin antibiotic. Thirty-six hours later the pain subsided substantially, though minor flare-ups and sensitivity to sweets continue to be worrisome... finally leading me to defer the planned next stop in Kunming and hurry back to Bangkok where my dentist can check out the problem.

All the lodging and health problems have been a distraction from my main objective of investigating independent travel possibilities for a visit to Lhasa, Tibet. When asked, the receptionists in the Aurum connected me to a travel agent who insisted the only way to get into Tibet is by joining a group tour, which he could arrange. "No thanks;" I replied. "I just want the government's Tibet Travel Permit. I'd like to make my own travel arrangements."

"Not possible." he responded and that ended the call. Back in my room I resumed the Internet search and found the government bureau issuing the permits has offices in many Chinese cities, including Xian! Finally locating an address for the Xian office, I walked down to the hotel address given only to find the hotel no longer exists! Returning to the Internet, everything I found repeated the admonition that ALL tourists must book their trips through a travel agent! So that ends my quest to see Tibet in this lifetime.

No one in the Aurum Hotel actually speaks good English though several people try very hard to understand my questions and make understandable replies. Everyone is friendly and attentive, especially Maggie, the Front Office Manager. Anyone who sits down in the lobby for more than five minutes will find a cup of tea magically appearing on the table in front of them. Most of the Chinese guests in the hotel I've observed have been polite and considerate. But, several groups of mostly men have disturbed the lobby and dining room with their noisy shouting, behavior characteristic of the traveling Chinese previously encountered.

As earlier mentioned, the disagreements between Google and Chinese authorities have resulted in most Google services becoming unavailable in the country... including Google maps needed for navigation on my Galaxy Note smart phone. Savvy Gmail users quickly found workable solutions to the problem. To my relief, one of the two Virtual Private Network services I'd installed on my Asus Transformer netbook is working occasionally so I can continue using my Gmail accounts as well. The VPN service that works for me is the free version of ProXPN which unfortunately doesn't have enough bandwidth for Netflix service over here. Internet connectivity itself continues to be a problem in most hotels however, so when things are working well I try to get as much done as possible before it stops working again.

There is a clock tower not far from the hotel and the carillon rings out every hour to the accompaniment of pidgins cooing right outside the window. Saturday morning at 06:30 I awoke to a loud barrage of military style music intermixed with exhortations in Chinese. Despite the fact there is a mosque only a few blocks away and a popular Muslim shopping district with all its colorful frenetic activity not far from the hotel, I hear no calls to prayer any time at all.

The popular New City Plaza Park is just down the street from the hotel and a variety of activities always are in progress there... an enjoyable place to stroll or just to pause and sit a while watching grandparents entertain the wee ones as custom has dictated for generations. On one walk through the park I heard what sounded like the popping of firecrackers, which turned out to be a bunch of fellows playing crack-the-whip or using the whips to keep their singing tops spinning. Another day I watched as an old fellow struggled to get his enormous butterfly kite airborne. Groups of ladies use the park for their morning exercise dancing. That small park is a very busy social center.

Xian is a walker's paradise. Even the downtown city sidewalks during busy periods of congestion allow mostly carefree strolling. The area around the outside perimeter of the city's massive wall has been converted into a beautiful park complete with wide artistically paved meandering walkways. Amateur musicians and professionals alike use the relative isolation to practice their art. The effect for foreign tourists is magical, creating an atmosphere reminding one of how things must have been in ancient times. A dozen major parks scattered throughout the city, all beautifully landscaped, also offer places to stroll and reflect.

As it appears the Tibet adventure is no longer practicable, I'll head down to Kunming for the remainder of my time in China before going back to Thailand for the return flight home on 27 July.

Peace,

Fred L Bellomy

PS: A flare-up of the dental problems demanded the Kunming segment be deferred until after a new Bangkok dental appointment! To catch a 0745 flight down to Kunming I stayed in the Traveler Star Hotel (in the T3 departure lobby of the Xi'an Xianyang International Airport) where a bedbug feasted on my leg and non-English speaking night staff slept through my wake-up call at 0500. With only double rooms left that evening, I paid the full double rate of 438RMB (about $67 for 7 hours of being flat.) The hotel is on a balcony above the China Eastern Airline check-in counters, very convenient for early morning departures.

Feeling the dental problems needed urgent attention I searched for and found a connecting flight to Bangkok leaving a couple hours after arriving in Kunming and booked it. Ah, the joys of traveling to exotic places dragging along an aging body! FB

 


Xian 2016: Daytime view of the Bell Tower from my fifth floor room in the Bell Tower Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: Access map on the wall of the underground tunnels around the Bell Tower.

 


Xian 2016: Some ladies doing an exercise dance in the New City Plaza Park.

 


Xian 2016: Sashimi selection included in the lavish $10 luncheon buffet in the Aurum Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: The Aurum Hotel as see from the fountains across the street in the New City Plaza Park.

 


Xian 2016: The Aurum Hotel as see from another location in the New City Plaza Park.

 


Xian 2016: Bus routes starting at the Northern railway station.

 


Xian 2016: Another view of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Dayan Pagoda) .

 


Xian 2016: One of a large number of sculptures by the same artist seen around the Folk Customs Theme Park.

 


Xian 2016: Columns seen in the Folk Customs Theme Park where the Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Dayan Pagoda) is located.

 


Xian 2016: Sign post in the Folk Customs Theme Park where the Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Dayan Pagoda)  is located.

 


Xian 2016: One of a large number of sculptures by the same artist seen around the Folk Customs Theme Park.

 


Xian 2016: Obviously the Chinese officials don't like Muslims washing their feet in the drinking fountain any more than we do in the West... a practice I have personally witnessed in at least two locations... including the Las Vegas airport restroom!

 


Xian 2016: This is the Dayan Pagoda (Big Wild Goose Pagoda) as seen from the area of the fountains.

 


Xian 2016: Step right up; you're next. Dental work is a spectator sport in this Xian practice. Those big picture windows make the performances of dentists visible to pedestrians outside. "Want some whitening with that crown?"

 


Xian 2016: I have no idea what this building might be. It just looked so ornate and Chinesie I felt moved to record it.

 


Xian 2016: Walking the wide paved path along the park next to the southern wall around the city I came upon this plaque presenting some of the history of the city's great wall.

 


Xian 2016: A lovely pagoda I stumbled on in a park to the east of the Aurum Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: A closer look at that lovely pagoda I stumbled on in a park to the east of the Aurum Hotel.
 

 

End

 

 


Xian 2016: Night time view of the Bell Tower across the boulevard from my fifth floor room in the Bell Tower Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: One of a large number of sculptures by the same artist seen around the Folk Customs Theme Park.

 


Xian 2016: Sleeping Box on Trial in Xi'an Airport. What a great idea, cost is $7.50/hr.

 


Xian 2016: This fancy automated coffee machine sits unavailable with the "Bad Machine" note.

 


Xian 2016: For fruit juices the Bell Tower Hotel offers these boxed flavored sweet water concoctions. Cloudy glassware completed the unappetizing impressions of the food service. The food and beverage operations badly need a major review.

 


Xian 2016: Noisy diners in the Bell Tower Hotel dining room at breakfast convinced this woman to avoid disturbing her table by moving over to mine... uninvited. Loud talking is only one of the bad manners displayed by the Chinese in public.

 


Xian 2016: Sculpture in one of the side lobbies of the Bell Tower Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: I love the English translations of some Chinese signs,

 


Xian 2016: Taiwan Style Pastries is a popular shop in Xian, I found it interesting given the political situation.

 


Xian 2016: Bas relief sculpture behind the reception desk at the $75 Aurum Hotel where I stayed most of my time in Xian.

 


Xian 2016: This is "Maggie" who manages the Aurum Hotel front office. She is trying to improve her use of English to make dealing with foreign guests more meaningful.

 


Xian 2016: Bas relief sculpture behind the reception desk at the $75 Aurum Hotel where I stayed most of my time in Xian.

 


Xian 2016: This is the clock tower which marks the hour with it's carillon music. Periodically it alos serves as the means for making announcements to all within hearing distance.

 


Xian 2016: Bas relief sculpture behind the reception desk at the $75 Aurum Hotel where I stayed most of my time in Xian.

 


Xian 2016: Paintings on the wall near my 1212 room in the Aurum Hotel. Work by the same artist hang on the walls of other floors I checked.

 


Xian 2016: Paintings on the wall near my 2112 room in the Aurum Hotel. Work by the same artist hang on the walls of other floors I checked.

 


Xian 2016: My selection one day from the lavish $10 luncheon buffet in the Aurum Hotel. I especially liked the selection of sashimi included in the spread.

 


Xian 2016: Decorations around the lavish $10 luncheon buffet in the Aurum Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: Decorations around the lavish $10 luncheon buffet in the Aurum Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: Decorations around the lavish $10 luncheon buffet in the Aurum Hotel.

 


Xian 2016: Obviously cherries are in season; quality varies quite a bit from one vendor to another.

 


Xian 2016: Bas relief sculpture behind the reception desk at the $75 Aurum Hotel where I stayed most of my time in Xian.

 


Xian 2016: Street sculpture erected in the sidewalk near a shopping mall.

 


Xian 2016: Street sculpture erected in a shopping mall.

 


Xian 2016: Chinese fast food similar to KFC & Mac Donald's, They are all over the place and serve good food at reasonable prices.

 


Xian 2016: I have seen no 7-Eleven stores so common in other parts of the world. However, there are several copy-cat chains like this one. The color schemes mimic the 7-Eleven stores and there might be some business relation as the operations are so similar.

 


Xian 2016: Pre-packaged, sanitary diner setup in the little noodle shop where I dined one evening.

 


Xian 2016: I chose this dish from a picture menu in the little noodle shop where I dined one evening thinking it would be some sort of noodle dish. What I got turned out to be SOUR BULL FROG. The tiny pieces of meat were not all that sour and tasted pretty good, actually. Near the end of the meal some guy at the adjacent table lit a cigarette. I complained and he graciously put it out, but another guy intervened and directed some disgruntled words (Chinese) in my direction. The Chinese are a decade behind the US in enforcement of no smoking laws.

 



Xian 2016: "No Smoking" cards on lobby tables in the Aurum Hotel where I stayed almost two weeks while in the city.

 


Xian 2016: A sculpture group seen along the wide paved path along the park next to the southern wall around the city. During my short walk I discovered two real musicians practicing their art, making for a magical experience.

 


Xian 2016: A closer look at the sculpture group seen along the wide paved path along the park next to the southern wall around the city.

 


Xian 2016: Walking the wide paved path along the park next to the southern wall around the city I heard this musician's performance long before I came to his hide-away.

 


Xian 2016: Walking the wide paved path along the park next to the southern wall around the city I heard this musician's performance long before I came to his hide-away. Obviously a professional musician, I suspect he chose this place to practice for its acoustics and isolation.

 


Xian 2016: Another armature musician playing his flute along the park next to the southern wall around the city.

 


Xian 2016: Numerous exercise facilities like this one outside the northern wall  around the city encourage people to stay healthy.

 


Xian 2016: View along the foot path outside the northern wall  around the city.

 


Xian 2016: Administrative offices outside the northern wall  around the city.

 


Xian 2016: Part of the mote outside the park next to the southern wall around the city. In modern times dams have been added to control the water.

 

End of column.
Reference photo: author
September 2015
 

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