I finally made it all the way down the railroad line to the farthest southwest corner of the Xinjiang Autonomous Region of China. Leaving Aksu city by train I arrived early afternoon in Kashgar.  Leaving Urumqi on 14 April I made short stops in Turpan, Korla, Kuqa, and Aksuma before arriving in Kashgar on 22 April. I'd say I have finally reached the "real China," but there are hardly any Chinese here! Everywhere I look I see Uyghur in their characteristic caps called Dopas.  A friend pointed out it would be helpful to include an on-line map for some of the obscure places I'm exploring. So, I found this map of the area around Kashgar. It is particularly good for examining the western borders of China and the rest of Central Asia. 

On the train I met Xie Ting Yu, a 24-year-old student in her fourth year of medical school in Urumqi studying Ophthalmology. The eldest of three sisters, she is fulfilling her father's thwarted ambitions. His hope to become a doctor was interrupted by the Cultural Revolution. She will delay marriage until she is thirty and finishes school. She got off the train in a tiny desert community about two hours before the train arrived in Kashgar.  She noted water is more precious there than electricity. 

Several #28 city buses sat waiting at the station for passengers, whisking us into the center of the city in a half hour. I started my usual hotel-shopping hike immediately. Initial impressions suggested there were few hotels anywhere in the city. Eventually, I settled on the 198-Yuan ($24) Wen Zhou Mansion a half block from the city center. Later I discovered the area is crowded with good hotels tucked into alleyways and in the upper stories of tall buildings. 

I'd say I have finally reached the "real China," but there are hardly any Chinese here! However, despite the heavy concentration of minority people, this is still China and has been for thousands of years! Now that I have learned a little spoken Han Chinese and can recognize a few important Chinese characters, everyone is speaking Uighur and writing things with an Arabic script! Everywhere I look I see Uighur men in their characteristic caps called Dopas and women with their heads completely covered by heavy brown knitted "baby blankets" called Yarlucks. Some of the uncovered women wear surgical masks, more a defense against the pervasive dust than a religious observance I suspect. 

In the old Uighur sections of the city traditional customs continue to dominate the lives of the people. Tourists are tolerated for the most part. Some of the stores cater to the interests of tourists. However, I see very few Westerners anywhere other than in the vicinity of the banks and upscale hotels, especially the Seman Hotel area favored by the backpacking crowd.  

The ancient 1600-year-old wall is still standing in an area near the Qinibagh Hotel, the former British Consulate where I spent most of my stay. Preserved by the dry desert air, some sections are in amazingly good condition. However, wherever recent development has encroached on the wall, the wall has given way. Parts of it have been removed to allow roads to pass through. In other sections buildings incorporate the wall as part of the new structure. Teeth marks from earth moving equipment can be seen on the wall at several places.  

At one point I started to snap another picture of the wall through the bars of a gate. Off to the side a gentle voice and movement attracted my attention to a sign on an adjacent building: "Military Administration Zone." The soldier gestured "no photography allowed." I doubt the ancient defense barrier has any military significance these days and found the possibility humorous. 

Food is proving to be a problem. Finding something I recognize as edible often has been limited to ice cream bars, rice, noodles, kabobs (though the lamb usually ends up as tough ram) and beer. The Muslims don't drink, so I know there are infidel Chinese in these parts; the few western tourists can't be responsible for all the beer being consumed here. 

The Internet cafes here all are well lighted and offer modern equipment and recent versions of Windows. All I have checked out have kept the lights on and smoking is less frequent than in other cities. All charge a minuscule two RMB per hour, about twenty-five cents. The best one is off the lobby of the Seman Hotel, formerly the Russian Consulate.  

Sidewalks are designed for both pedestrians and two wheeled vehicles. Wheelchairs rarely use the ramps at corners; mostly they help motorcycles speed along. The central government has obviously created incentives for cities to all use the same red, yellow and white sidewalk tiles all over China. Everyplace I've stopped has had the same colors and tile designs.  

There are many beggars on the streets, some in tatters. None are obnoxious and receive with sincere gratitude the small donations (one or two cents) passersby give them. The giving and the receiving remind me of the ritual practiced by the monks in some Buddhist countries. The monks stand passively, receiving the gifts of food as a means of allowing the devoted to experience charity. 

There are no CNN or BBC channels here. CCTV does have a couple English language channels. The news is kept uncontroversial. For example, a report of the explosion in the DPRK a few days ago with a hundred and thirty dead focused on China's humanitarian relief efforts. Cause of the explosion finally got mentioned in passing today with little detail: strange for a disaster of such magnitude. On the other hand, cultural and historical programs have been wonderful. The Chinese equivalents of our old Westerns are educational and usually entertaining, though exclusively in Chinese. Many deal with epic historical events. 

I met an unregistered Christian evangelist who told me the government requires religious teachers to undergo a period of indoctrination before allowing them to become registered religious leaders. Registration gives groups certain benefits, but requires limitations on the teaching of rigid dogmas... like claims of scriptural infallibility, etc. The owner of the Seman Hotel cyber cafe, Abdulwahab is a Uighur Muslim. In several conversations with him I learned the Islam practiced here in this part of China is rather moderate. Violent jihad is not advocated. Indeed the government prohibits it. His brother, Abdulrekib is an Imam working days in my hotel and finds no conflict between the Qur’an, as he understands it and the significant limits imposed by the government.  

A few of the Uighur men appear to be zealots, extreme fundamentalist Muslims, but the majority is quite moderate in my observations. I hear no call to prayers by muezzins. In fact, only during the Friday noon activities did I see anything that looked like organized religious observance in this predominantly Muslim city.  

My first Sunday I took a #20 bus into the midst of the extraordinary Sunday Grand International Bazaar. I spent the morning pushing my way through endless crowded isles of exotic products and even more exotic shoppers, snapping pictures as I went. The noise, the music, the smells, the donkey carts all managed to create a totally foreign experience. I loved it. Women in their finest metallic embroidered or sequin covered dresses and scarves dashed around shopping like women everywhere. Donkey cart taxis worked their way through crowded isles, the often young boy drivers shouting "Bosht, bosht" at shoppers to get out of the way. Every imaginable product graced the display tables and ground covers.  Things I saw being offered for sale included fabrics, elaborately crafted knives, farm produce, meats, dogs and cats (for pets!), goats, cattle and sheep (for food), tea cooled over large chunks of ice, meat kabobs, fresh peeled fruit and more. One liter bottles of beer cost the same as liter bottles of mineral water which costs the same as a can of Coke: three Yuan or thirty-seven cents. Actually, the beer has a surprisingly good fruit-like flavor. It reminds me of the fragrance of flowers. 

A half block east of city center is a large statue of Mao Zedong standing across the street from People's Square. Everything seems to be in easy reach of walking or the excellent city bus system. Bus rides are one Yuan (twelve cents). Taxi rides to anywhere in the city are a flat five-Yuan. There are "super" markets, but they give new meaning to the word "super!" Almost no western goods are on display. There are no McDonald restaurants, no KFC's. One Chinese franchise, Best Food Burgers tries to mimic the McDonald's operations, but fails in quality and efficiency. 

People scream into their cell phones. Sometimes I wonder if they are not trying to attract attention to the fact they can afford one of these status symbols. Peasants in their old style clothes on the street carry expressions of bewilderment, wonder. It is striking what an education and exposure to modern influences can do for people. I have seen many preschool kids crying on the street in response to parent's refusal to meet their demands. 

The very helpful government travel agent in the China International Travel Service, CITS called the Urumqi Kyrgyzstan Airline office and confirmed Americans can get a Kyrgyzstan visa in Bishkek, if they fly into the country on Kyrgyzstan Airline; no advance planning required. There is only one flight weekly out of Urumqi on Tuesday. That sounds perfect to me as all the other nearby countries require visa applications to be processed in Beijing. While this can be handled by mail, there are extra costs and the process takes at least ten days. 

With four daily flights back to Urumqi I learned of the big difference in fares for tickets bought today (1230 Yuan or $154) and those bought five days in advance (490 Yuan or $61). Naturally I bought the cheap ticket, which can be changed, if necessary by paying an $18 penalty... still half price. Today I made a trial run to the airport and discovered the 10:50 flight I've booked for Sunday has been delayed 12 hours for today's flight... something everyone says is common. 

My last day before flying back up to Urumqi I switched hotels to be closer to airport transportation. The day I checked into the 150 Yuan per night Heng Yuan Hotel all power had been cut to permit workmen to complete construction of the new building. I assumed the power outage and unavailability of an elevator would be for a short time only and obligingly climbed the five flights of stairs to my room. By the time it had turned dark the power still had not been restored. Undaunted, I descended the darkened stairs to the candle lit restaurant on the second floor for dinner and discovered no one spoke much English. I pointed to the Chinese character for "chicken" in the description of an item on the menu, flapped my elbows and clucked. Soon, the entire kitchen staff, waiters and waitresses, hotel management, and reception desk staff had congregated to discuss my dining needs. As I could not answer any of their questions about what I might like with my chicken or how I might like it cooked, an animated debate ensued. Everyone clearly concerned I should have a memorable dining experience in their recently opened hotel dining room.  

Eventually, a dish of garlic mushroom chicken appeared, along with rice, carrots, a dish of fresh fruit and a glass of hot tea... plus a knife and fork. Aside from the fact the chicken had been chopped into bite size pieces by a sadistic chief who managed to embed bone splinters in every bite, I found it a gourmet delight. A half dozen staff hovered over and around my table watching my every move with anticipation. When the bill came I thought someone had made a mistake: twenty-one Yuan or about $2.60 including candles, tax and tip! (Taxes are never added and tipping is not expected... indeed, on one occasion I had a waiter rush after me with the few Yuan I had "forgotten.")  

I'll remain in China a while longer and then head into one or more of the central Asian countries. It now looks like my best option will be to fly back through Urumqi and then on into Bishkek where I can get a Kyrgyzstan visa at the airport on arrival. Other options are much more complicated. Yesterday the U.S. State Department issued a travel warning for Kyrgyzstan, so I move into high alert. 

PS: Pictures I took while in Kashgar may be viewed at HERE
And the pictures I took at the Sunday Bazaar are HERE
And those taken in the Bachao Memorial Park can be seen here HERE.